Citadel Finecast

By now you should have heard of Citadel Finecast. For those of you that have not, where have you been for the last week. But to put it down in more simple terms, Citadel Finecast is a highly detailed resin that has replaced many of Citadels metal models. The detail on each model is just amazing. Each piece looks just as the original "green" did. Finecast is also very easy to work with, as the resin is much less brittle as the metal duplicate. Its also more easy to paint the pieces since the details are much more prominent. Combined with extreme detail, easy to work with, and almost feather like weight, Finecast seems to be the next best thing Citadel has ever released. But with all things nothing is ever perfect. Air bubbles are all to common and some can even be quite large. Truthfully though, these can be very easy to patch up and a little green stuff can handle the large ones. I would also like to point out that many parts can be a bit flimsy, but is that all too bad.
          So when the release date finally came I had to make the decision, what Finecast piece should I get. I decided on The Green Knight, sculpted by Michael Perry. The Green Knight is my all time favorite model, and to say otherwise would be a lie. It was my first ever Warhammer piece and as such, has a special place in my heart. Also I messed up big time on the paint job and the thought of being able to repaint my favorite model, that was now in Finecast has just so exciting. So I got the model and set to work building it.    
          The resin was so light. What would have weighed as much as a rock now weighs near to nothing. Also those pesky mold lines and extra pieces of resin were so easy to clean up. There were just three problems. One, the very end of the shield was missing, darn air bubbles. Two, The Dolorous Blade was as twisted as a chaos spawn. And three, there was a huge gap in The Shadow Steeds chest. Problems Two and Three were solved with the simple use of a hair dryer. By heating up the resin you can move parts of the resin that you would not normally be able to. So I was able to straiten out the Dolorous Blade and push together the gap in the chest, no green stuff needed. The shield was repaired with a bit of green stuff. When I was done I was impressed by the over all look of the model. The barding did not look as heavy and the detail on the shield was much more crisp.
           In the end, except for just a few flaws, Citadel Finecast is just amazing and I recommend getting one.

Detail of barding.

What Its All About

This blog is for the kind of person who is interested in the modeling area of Warhammer and Warhammer 40K. I hope to introduce new ideas to help you make the perfect gaming pieces. I will also post battle missions and battle reports. Here is a small taste of what I will be doing.

One of the most basic and simple way of improving a squad of Space Marines is adding character to its members. May they be a regular Tactical Squad or even Terminators, simple turns of the torso, raising of a bolt gun, and moving the head of the model can really add character and a sense of atmosphere to the squad. Adding bits can also greatly help improve this look.

Aggressive Stances 

A model aiming down his bolt gun is much more imposing than a model with its gun lowered. To make a good shooting model its best to have much of the weight on the models back foot, as if bracing against the recoil of his gun. For heavier weaponry, such as melta and plasma guns you can emphasize the weight of the gun by having the gun held lower towards the ground. For models that are armed with pistols you position the head slightly to the side as if the model is sighting down his pistol as he fires. For models that armed with close combat weapons it is a good idea to have them held in consideration to what the weapon looks like and also to its weight and to have the torso leaned forward. For Power and Chain Swords, I like to have them held forward, as if they are being slashed down at an enemy. Power Fists and Thunder Hammers are much more heavy and strike slower and should be positioned so the are swung back, preparing to be smashed into the enemy.

This Blood Angles Captain has his Storm Shield leveled as if blocking oncoming fire. His Thunder Hammer is swung back, building up strength for impact.

Defensive Stances


Lowered weapons and more watchful poses can help make the look of a squad that is waiting for the enemy to make the first move. Models armed with a Bolt Gun are the best for this kind of pose, as it can be easy to make it look as if it is being held at rest. Having the model looking forward or away from his gun can make the model look more aware. A model with a auspex or kneeling legs could fit in to a squad like this very nicely.

Adding on Bits and Other Kinds of Detail 


Bits are just wonderful at adding character to a squad. They can help make them look more elite and more prepared for combat. Its best to try to add on kit, such as ammunition pouches, holsters, grenades, and combat blades, if you are trying to make a more real looking squad. Adding purity seals can make a squad look more elite than it normally would. Lastly drilling holes into the larger armor plates, shoulder pauldrons, can make the squad look more worn down.